Sharpening stones and slips - I have some in my shop you are welcome to use. Scrub Plane, Bench Plane - For flattening the seat. Millers-Falls made a nice one, but all the ones I have work well. You can watch me grind them on my online class.ġ8″ Auger Bit Extension - Used for stretcher and spindle mortises when boring without any power tools. Lee Valley’s bits are really nice and the point is long enough that you can make them work (it’s not as long as I’d like, but it’s longer than most brands). At one point, Charlie Ryland was making bits like the ones I make. I make them from twist bits (it’s amazingly easy). Amazingly, it works great both in a brace or a cordless drill. Read more info on my bit choices.ĥ/8″ Brad Point Bit: I use these for stretcher mortices, since an auger bit tends to tear at such a steep angle. Kreg Jig Micro Bit (3/10″ diameter) - I recently switched to using this bit for all angled holes in backs (Loop Back, Continuous Arm, Sack Back, etc). School drills can have dead batteries (and I don’t have enough drills for 4 students), so you might want to bring your drill. My online class about drill bits has info on choosing, sharpening and using auger bits.Ĭordless Drill - I use this to some extent for assembly, especially stretcher mortises. If we’re boring without electricity or making a loop back, a 5/8 bit. All match Swiss Made numbering system, except the 6/20 which matches Two Cherries).īit Brace & Auger Bits - We’ll use 3/8, 1/2, 11/16 bits. I’d tell you what the numbers of my gouges are, but there are different measuring systems and the whole thing is a confusing mess, so just get gouges that come close to matching my curves. Anything that has a similar curve (is a section of the same size circle) will work, regardless of it’s width. For Fan-Back and Comb-Back volutes, print this photo of my gouges and match your gouges to it. For gutters, use a veiner - I use an 11/7. For trimming leg tenons, use something beefy and of moderate sweep like a #3. You can also make one yourself or use a large protractor.īacksaw - When I’m traveling to teach, sharp saws can be scarce.īench Chisel - I like a 1″ chisel, the worse it looks, the better I like it. The Japan knock-offs I’ve seen are junk, as are the plastic things at Home Depot.īevel Board - Handy for setting the T-Bevel.
T-Bevel - Get one that locks well, like a Stanley #18. Heavy-bodied machinist squares are nice (less tipsy), but not necessary. Try square - For the reaming operation, make sure it will stand upright some tip over if the wood is worn. Marking Gauge - The duller the better – a sharp one won’t leave a line on green wood. Wooden bodies shaves and other low-angle shaves are superior for endgrain, but little else. Spokeshave - I use metal spokeshaves like Stanley #151 and the curved-bottom Boggs Shave from Lie-Neilsen (no need for the flat-bottom – the curved bottom will work for everything). Good old brands are too numerous to name: PS&W, Lakeshore, Witherby, Barton, etc. My online class has lots of sharpening, purchasing and using info. For that, it’s nice to have a blade that’s 3/16″ thick or so at the edge. None of the new ones has a thin enough blade to allow the drawknife to fit into tight curves such as the seat’s waist. The new ones made in Mexico may be good too, I don’t know.ĭrawknife - Barr Tools and Lie-Nielsen make nice ones, but I like old ones from Ebay. It has a label like this and they can often be found on Ebay. I have a vintage USA-made Collins wedge that works nicely. Just make sure the taper of the wedge continues all the way to the point, without any secondary bevels. A blacksmith can draw them to a point, or you can buy good ones used on Ebay. Splitting Wedges: New wedges all seem to have big bevels at the edge that make it hard to start a split. I’ve tried to note those.įroe and Froe Club - If you must buy new I’d buy Lie-Nielsen’s or Lee-Valley’s but I like my old ones better.
Some tools, however, are only used for building a specific chair. Wait to buy tools till you get a chance to see what you like during the class.Ī note of warning: I use this list for every chair I teach and for every school I teach at. Maybe you want to practice using your own tools (some tools, especially lathe tools, can feel very different with slight sharpening or manufacturing variations).
Maybe you would like help getting some tools tuned up. If the class is at a school, I’ll be bringing or shipping plenty of specialty tools like drawknives, spokeshaves, inshaves, drill bits, etc.īring whatever tools you have.
JASON LONON ADZE PORTABLE
I have all the tools needed if you are attending a class at my shop (except portable drills – please bring yours if you aren’t flying). You DO NOT need to bring all these tools to class. This is a fairly comprehensive list of the chairmaking tools I use.
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